Thanks for your interest in these replica blades! These are all made one at a time with lots of meticulous care and effort put into making these as accurate as possible. I recently just finished the first prototype of the Skyward Sword/Breath of the Wild version this summer after 3 months of R&D, and should hopefully have pictures of the painted version up soon. Until then, here's a picture of the current stats. If you're interestd in any of the Zelda sets or any swords on the site, just let me know:
Or if you would like to visit my ebay page where I'll probably start posting auctions again soon, there's a 'follow' link on my profile here:
NOTE: I still havenít finished the DVD tutorial on the Mirror Shield yet. But, when it is finished, I should have it posted here for fans who want to learn how to make fiberglass props from beginning to end.
What makes fiberglass so great?
Fiberglass cost more and takes a lot more effort and skill to work with and polish smooth, but yields a much higher and more durable surface than other materials. It also doesn't get brittle and break as easily as clay or sculpy, so it will last for years in your collection. It also resists dents and chips far more than wood, and especially foam. Overall, these props are built for collectors who want an accurate and sturdy replica, but are also ideal for cosplayers who need convention safe blades that look and feel like real steel swords.
What is the difference between painted and un-painted replicas?
The painted ones are the swords currently on the site, and come fully ready to cosplay or wall mount. The un-painted ones however are for fans who don't quite have a budget to afford the finished swords, but would love to have one and are willing to paint it on their own. The paint I use generally costs about $200, and requires a full HVLP system to apply it. Where as the unpainted ones I ship fully finished, primed, and ready to take any paint you wish to apply.
Can you make armor or other accessories?
Swords are the main focus. I have made Ryo's full Ronin Warrior armor, so I know how, but it just takes too long and is really difficult to custom fit pieces to someone I've never seen. Instead, I have an excellent ‘how to’ section so you can learn on your own, or at least see how much work goes into a suit of armor. If you're really intersted in having armor made though... it'll probably be a few thousand dollars for a Hollywood quality set of armor.
How accurate is each prop?
I generally do whatever it takes to make the prop look completely accurate to the original design. I look through many many reference pictures and cross check them to see what the most common traits are since not every drawing is the same. I also try to follow the original concept art, but in certain cases I side with the CG models if that's all that is available. I also try to scale the prop to the character who uses it in the show. So if the sword is as tall as a 4' girl, the sword should be 4' in real life.
How strong are the blades?
The swords are made with rigid urethane resin, steel or aluminum reinforced, finished with durable automotive paint, and generally hold up to average convention handling. Also, since these blades are structurally reinforced, they shouldn't break if dropped or thrown around. However, they may get scratched , chipped, or cracked if beat against hard surfaces. In the event that damage does occur though, a similar color sharpie, or just black, seems to work well enough for disguising any blemishes. Caution though, as with most props, leaving in direct sunlight for long periods of time may cause slight warping.
If you have any questions or comments though, you can reach me at the following email address. Due to the number of emails I receive though, it may take a while before I can reply. Blademaster@fiberglassblades.com
All images rendered by me, designs copyright to their respective owners